Shienaran and Malkieri “New Spring” Fashion

This post contains spoilers for New Spring.

Malkier lay to the north of Shienar; and when it fell, Shienar truly became part of the Borderlands. “The law in every Borderland forbade hiding your face inside village or town” (p. 216).


Very little is mentioned with regards to Shienaran fashion. The only description given was that of a soldier during the Aiel War. He was “stone-faced…with his crested helmet hanging from his saddle and his head shaved except for a topknot” (p. 64).


Though the nation of Malkier had fallen, the fashion lived on. Some had adopted the dress of other nations, such as Ryne Venamar appearing to be Arafellin in his attire. Others retained traditional dress.

During the Aiel War, al’Lan Mandragoran and Bukama Marenellin wore unadorned armor, coats, and coats of plain wool. Lan’s helmet was in the Malkieri tradition, “supporting a steel crescent moon above his forehead” (p. 2). After the war, they wore “dark, knee-long coats” (p. 263). When needing to dress for a more formal occasion, Lan wore a white silk shirt, “tight black silk breeches”, and a “good black silk coat embroidered along the sleeves with golden bloodroses among their hooked thorns” (p. 300).

Bukama’s hair was “worn cut at the shoulders as tradition required” (p. 4). It was tradition for Malkieri men to wear the hadori, a “thin braided leather cord” worn across the forehead to hold their hair back (p. 5). Lan wore it as well, and he “would die wearing it, and go into the ground wearing that and nothing else” (p. 5).

Tradition among Malkieri women was to adorn their “foreheads with the ki’sain in pledge that they would swear their sons to oppose the Shadow while they breathed” (p. 220). As an unmarried woman, Iselle Arrel wore “a small blue dot painted on her forehead” (p. 338). Her mother, Edeyn ti Gemallen Arrel, wore a ki’sain, “still the white of a widow” (p. 304).

Iselle Arrel was described as a young woman with “black hair that fell well below her hips” and in a “pale green silk” dress (p. 338). After Iselle died, Edeyn wore a “white gown, her hair cut raggedly short” in mourning (p. 354).

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Domani “New Spring” Fashion

This post contains spoilers for New Spring.
The fashion of Arad Doman focused predominantly on that of the women. The only clear depiction of male attire is that of Basram during the Aiel War, which is definitely military, rather than civilian. “The hood of his cloak slid back, revealing his conical steel helmet…vertical bars of his faceguard” (p. 2). He is described as wearing gloves and being armed with a horsebow.
Most people of Arad Doman were of a copper complexion and slim. “Copper-skinned Domani women in fancifully worked cloaks – doubtless merchants; most Domani women seen abroad were” (p. 64). Tamore Alkohima was a highly praised seamstress in Tar Valon. She was “fair-skinned for a Domani” (p. 190). Leane Sharif, Aes Sedai of the Blue Ajah, was “willowy and as tall as most men” (p. 162). Jeaine Caide, a “slim, copper-skinned Domani” was Aes Sedai of the Green Ajah (p. 158). However, there are always exceptions. At the Blue Rose Inn, there was a “plump copper-skinned woman wearing a much thicker dress than Domani women usually did” (p. 225).
The Domani fashion for women was generally “clinging and little short of sheer” (p. 304). Three women at the Evening Star Inn wore “bright Domani dresses” and “tall chain-necklaces of gold that covered their entire necks” (p. 316). Tamore Alkohima wore a “pale green dress, elegant and simple at the same time” which “spoke well of her talents, though it did cling in an alarming manner, molding her in a way that left no doubts of exactly what lay beneath the silk” (p. 190). Duhara Basaheen was the Keeper raised from the Red Ajah. “Her dark dress was so slashed with scarlet it might as well have been scarlet” (p. 206).
Male military fashion of Arad Doman included conical helmets with vertical bars across the faceguard. Women’s fashion generally included sheer and clinging gowns as well as embroidered cloaks and tall necklaces.

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Murundian “New Spring” Fashion


This post contains spoilers for New Spring.

Within New Spring are descriptions of the fashions of various nations. While some are only mentioned in general, others are explored in greater detail. We are given several examples of Murandian fashion.

Fashion for men of Murandy is limited. Bright colors and curled mustaches appear to be common. Murandian dandies are described as “brightly coated” and having “curled mustaches” (p. 63).

Women’s fashion of Murandy is described a bit better. When examining the women who gathered with their infants to have their names taken down, most “wore plain, thick woolens, but half a dozen or so were in silks or at least ornately embroidered dresses of fine cut that indicated wealth or nobility or both” (p. 73).

Most dresses appeared to have high necks. Wealthy women, such as Lady Meri do Ahlan a’Conlin, utilized silk and embroidered fabrics. Her “high-necked green riding dress” was of silk, if not the best, and her “fur-lined blue cloak” was “embroidered in red and gold. And she wore a jeweled ring on every finger” (p. 75). Though certainly not poor, Haesel Palan, a rug merchant, wore “fine brown woolens” (p. 258).

Elaida do Avriny a’Roihan, was a Red Aes Sedai from Murandy. Her clothes exemplified the high-neck and use of embroidery. “Her brocaded dress was not a muted red or a faint red, but a bright hue, as though she were screaming her Ajah to the world. Her cloak, lined in black fur, was exactly the same shade” (p. 84). She later appeared in a “high-necked dress even redder that that she had worn the day before…Her red-fringed shawl was richly embroidered with flowered vines” (p. 104).

Murandian men’s fashion was focused on brightly colored coats and curled mustaches. The fashion for women of Murandy had high-necked dresses and often incorporated embroidery.

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Taraboner “New Spring” Fashion

This post contains spoilers for New Spring.
The fashion of the various nations are explored within New Spring.  Some are only mentioned in general, while others are described in greater detail. We are given several examples of Taraboner fashion.
Common features of Taraboner men’s fashion are mustaches and the use of transparent veils. One of the Green Warders “had a thick Taraboner mustache” (p. 115). Among the travelers in Tar Valon were “Taraboner men from the far west, wearing veils that covered their faces to the eyes, and were transparent enough to show their thick mustaches clearly” (p. 63).
Women’s Taraboner fashion included beaded braids. Ludice Daneen, a Yellow Aes Sedai, had her face framed “by brightly beaded Taraboner braids that hung to her waist” (p. 120). Cetalia Delarme, a Blue Aes Sedai, wore her “steel-grey hair in a multitude of blue-beaded braids that hung to her waist” and that rattled “softly as she tilted her head thoughtfully” (p. 174-175). “A multitude of thin Taraboner braids” surrounded the face if the Accepted, Sarene Nemdahl, who was unconscious of her great beauty and had “remarkably little tact for a shopkeeper’s daughter” (p. 71-72).
Pale tones may have been popular in Taraboner fashion. Cetalia wore “sky-blue silk” (p. 174). In Siuan Sanche’s Accepted room was “a small, square Taraboner rug woven in faded blue and green stripes” (p. 37). While a rug is not clothing, it could be an indicator of popular colors and designs.
Taraboner fashion may have a preference for pale colors. For men, mustaches and veils were typical; and for women, waist length, beaded braids were common.

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“New Spring” Altaran and Saldean Fashion


This post contains spoilers for New Spring

The fashions of the various nations are described in New Spring. While some are explored in greater detail than others, it still provides a more complete depiction of the people of this world.

In general, the people of Altara are described as olive-skinned, but they are varied. Myrelle Berengari, from Altara, was “olive-skinned and beautiful” and nearly as tall as Siuan (p. 44). There was a Green Warder who was “very dark, perhaps a Tairen or a southern Altaran” (p. 115). “Tarna Feir was from the north of Altara, close to Andor” and had “pale yellow hair” and “cold blue eyes” (p. 47).
Embroidery and bright colors were emphasized in Altaran fashion. “Altaran men in heavily embroidered coats, Altaran women clutching their cloaks, bright red or green or yellow, to shield what their low-cut dresses exposed to the icy air” (p. 64).

A main feature of those from Saldaea was their eyes. Natasia, a Blue Aes Sedai, was “a slim Saldaean with dark tilted eyes and high cheekbones” (p. 171). Another Blue Aes Sedai from Saldaea, Sheriam was “fire-haired” (p. 202).

Very little is offered with regards to their actual fashion. A “skinny, hook-nosed fellow” from Saldaea was a “coatless groom” (p. 261). A Saldean tradesman or craftsman wore a “plain woolen coat” (p. 63). It is possible that in general they tended toward plain attire.

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